Wow. Not bad at all. The Hydra and the Wyrm look exceptional really.
> I bought a lot of collectibles called Dragonix (made in italy) that can
> easily be painted and look good next to 15mm figs. I'll try to photograph
> some if you don't find them online. Here they sell them in newsstands in
> random packs for 2.50 eur each
> Here are some from a kid's page:
> http://www.gatto999.it/images/stories/Foto%20x%20Gatto999%202/Dragonix.JPG
> Andrea
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 10, 2010 at 2:08 AM, <jacar@...> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> > We are debating this, generally it won't make a big difference as long
>> as
>> > the frontage is 40mm, and I don't think you want to play dragons in
>> > formations with other dragons. Weird because I have 10 different
>> dragons
>> > and
>>
>> A Dragon on a 40mm square? Do tell? Who makes them? I have 3 old Ral
>> Partha Dragons and they REQUIRE at least 40X80. It is not horrible that
>> way but a little annoying.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> my games:
> http://www.ganeshagames.net
>
> my gaming blog:
> http://ganeshagames.blogspot.com
>
> My Twitter:
> http://twitter.com/ganeshagames
>
> My Facebook:
> http://www.facebook.com/ganeshagames
>
> My Lulu shop:
> http://www.lulu.com/songofblades
>
> my fine art: www.yessy.com/umbra
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
I bought a lot of collectibles called Dragonix (made in italy) that can
easily be painted and look good next to 15mm figs. I'll try to photograph
some if you don't find them online. Here they sell them in newsstands in
random packs for 2.50 eur each
Here are some from a kid's page:
http://www.gatto999.it/images/stories/Foto%20x%20Gatto999%202/Dragonix.JPG
Andrea
On Wed, Feb 10, 2010 at 2:08 AM, <jacar@...> wrote:
>
>
> > We are debating this, generally it won't make a big difference as long as
> > the frontage is 40mm, and I don't think you want to play dragons in
> > formations with other dragons. Weird because I have 10 different dragons
> > and
>
> A Dragon on a 40mm square? Do tell? Who makes them? I have 3 old Ral
> Partha Dragons and they REQUIRE at least 40X80. It is not horrible that
> way but a little annoying.
>
>
>
--
my games:
http://www.ganeshagames.net
my gaming blog:
http://ganeshagames.blogspot.com
My Twitter:
http://twitter.com/ganeshagames
My Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/ganeshagames
My Lulu shop:
http://www.lulu.com/songofblades
my fine art: www.yessy.com/umbra
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> We are debating this, generally it won't make a big difference as long as
> the frontage is 40mm, and I don't think you want to play dragons in
> formations with other dragons. Weird because I have 10 different dragons
> and
A Dragon on a 40mm square? Do tell? Who makes them? I have 3 old Ral
Partha Dragons and they REQUIRE at least 40X80. It is not horrible that
way but a little annoying.
On 2/9/2010 08:22, timlillig wrote:
> I added the Song of the Splintered Lands abilities to the warband builder and
uploaded the file as SBHform1.2.13.html. Hopefully I'm not stepping on Ray's
toes too badly by doing this.
>
> -Tim
>
> Here is the code I added:
>
> var Version = "1.2.13";
> var UpdateDate = "February 9, 2010";
>
> // v1.2.13 - Feb 09, 2010 - Added special rules from Song of the Splintered
Lands
> Rulebook[6] = new BookInfo("Song of the Splintered
Lands","SSL","#F0E68C",true);
>
> SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Abbot",18,true,6,"31"));
> SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Battlebeast",0,false,6,"31"));
> SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Bodyguard",0,false,6,"31"));
> SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Deaf",0,false,6,"32"));
> SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Music",0,false,6,"32"));
> SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Near Invulnerability",7,true,6,"31"));
> SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Rare",0,false,6,"32"));
> SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Scout",3,false,6,"32"));
>
>
>
Not a problem. I'm updating several of the builders tonight, so I'll go
ahead and move that code into the version I maintain.
--
Ray Forsythe - erf2@... - www.wombatzone.com
We are debating this, generally it won't make a big difference as long as
the frontage is 40mm, and I don't think you want to play dragons in
formations with other dragons. Weird because I have 10 different dragons and
I managed to fit all of them on a 40x40mm
Andrea
On Tue, Feb 9, 2010 at 5:52 PM, fenntroll <fenntroll@...> wrote:
>
>
> Will all units have to be based on a 40x40 mm base or could you use deeper
> bases, say 40x60mm for some large 15mm mins ?. I was thinking of Dragons and
> such like.
>
> Regards Steven.
>
>
>
--
my games:
http://www.ganeshagames.net
my gaming blog:
http://ganeshagames.blogspot.com
My Twitter:
http://twitter.com/ganeshagames
My Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/ganeshagames
My Lulu shop:
http://www.lulu.com/songofblades
my fine art: www.yessy.com/umbra
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Will all units have to be based on a 40x40 mm base or could you use deeper
bases, say 40x60mm for some large 15mm mins ?. I was thinking of Dragons and
such like.
Regards Steven.
This is what made me determined to do a shooty version of the rules ...
in order to use the small teams in FL you must use 'fire and manouver'
tactics.
Rich
--- In songofblades@yahoogroups.com, andrea sfiligoi
<andreasfiligoi@...> wrote:
>
> Of course nothing stops you from getting close to the hiding target
and
> shoot him from another point of the battlefield where his cover won't
work
> (oh wait, his friends' bullets might stop you :-))
> A
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 9, 2010 at 3:26 PM, emilio_mn mr_natcheal@... wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Great, sounds like a real firefight. Thanks.
> >
> > Emilio.
> >
> >
> > --- In songofblades@yahoogroups.com
<songofblades%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > andrea sfiligoi andreasfiligoi@ wrote:
> > >
> > > Yes... applicability depends on the kind of cover. We rule that
this
> > happens
> > > when the cover is enough to hide at least 50% of the character
when he is
> > > standing
> > > You can still shoot at him with speculative fire modifier because
you
> > know
> > > he is in the area
> > > Andrea
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> my games:
> http://www.ganeshagames.net
>
> my gaming blog:
> http://ganeshagames.blogspot.com
>
> My Twitter:
> http://twitter.com/ganeshagames
>
> My Facebook:
> http://www.facebook.com/ganeshagames
>
> My Lulu shop:
> http://www.lulu.com/songofblades
>
> my fine art: www.yessy.com/umbra
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Actually I think the question applies to when you can see the enemy behind
cover, if you make them 'seek cover' or 'shake them' then they drop out of sight
(could be behind a wall etc). You can't see them until they get up so it is a
good time to set up overwatch so when they pop up you get to shoot. If they are
behind cover that is not bullet proof you can also shoot wit speculative fire -
which is at -3 but you may shake a character or if they are shaken winning will
be lethal remember.
Enemies (or markers) who are 'hidden' can be hit with speculative fire as well.
Rich
--- In songofblades@yahoogroups.com, andrea sfiligoi <andreasfiligoi@...> wrote:
>
> Yes... applicability depends on the kind of cover. We rule that this happens
> when the cover is enough to hide at least 50% of the character when he is
> standing
> You can still shoot at him with speculative fire modifier because you know
> he is in the area
> Andrea
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 9, 2010 at 3:06 PM, emilio_mn <mr_natcheal@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Is Cpt Sfiligoi saying in page 12 that a character who goes to ground
> > behind cover is no longer in sight? You shoot at a target who is behind a
> > big rock, you win the roll so he falls to ground or gets shaken. Then you
> > can't see him again until he recovers. Is this right?
> >
> > Emilio.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> my games:
> http://www.ganeshagames.net
>
> my gaming blog:
> http://ganeshagames.blogspot.com
>
> My Twitter:
> http://twitter.com/ganeshagames
>
> My Facebook:
> http://www.facebook.com/ganeshagames
>
> My Lulu shop:
> http://www.lulu.com/songofblades
>
> my fine art: www.yessy.com/umbra
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Of course nothing stops you from getting close to the hiding target and
shoot him from another point of the battlefield where his cover won't work
(oh wait, his friends' bullets might stop you :-))
A
On Tue, Feb 9, 2010 at 3:26 PM, emilio_mn <mr_natcheal@...> wrote:
>
>
> Great, sounds like a real firefight. Thanks.
>
> Emilio.
>
>
> --- In songofblades@yahoogroups.com <songofblades%40yahoogroups.com>,
> andrea sfiligoi <andreasfiligoi@...> wrote:
> >
> > Yes... applicability depends on the kind of cover. We rule that this
> happens
> > when the cover is enough to hide at least 50% of the character when he is
> > standing
> > You can still shoot at him with speculative fire modifier because you
> know
> > he is in the area
> > Andrea
>
>
>
--
my games:
http://www.ganeshagames.net
my gaming blog:
http://ganeshagames.blogspot.com
My Twitter:
http://twitter.com/ganeshagames
My Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/ganeshagames
My Lulu shop:
http://www.lulu.com/songofblades
my fine art: www.yessy.com/umbra
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Great, sounds like a real firefight. Thanks.
Emilio.
--- In songofblades@yahoogroups.com, andrea sfiligoi <andreasfiligoi@...> wrote:
>
> Yes... applicability depends on the kind of cover. We rule that this happens
> when the cover is enough to hide at least 50% of the character when he is
> standing
> You can still shoot at him with speculative fire modifier because you know
> he is in the area
> Andrea
I generally don't like markers. When I need them I tend to make scenic bits
that are not so obtrusive. Casualty figures are very handy (Peter Pig and
Old Glory offer lots of wounded and dead in 15mm and 25mm respectively).
Small boxes, crates, bushes, pebbles, etc are nice, they look like
battlefield debris. Cotton wool makes handy smoke for reload markers. Peter
Pig also make a 15mm rifle stuck upright in a small pile of rocks as a
"jammed" marker in their Sudan range.
I do find that with increased practice and familiarity with a rule set I
need fewer markers. For any game with a roster a lot of information can also
be noted on the roster instead of marked on the tabletop.
cheers,
--dave
Yes... applicability depends on the kind of cover. We rule that this happens
when the cover is enough to hide at least 50% of the character when he is
standing
You can still shoot at him with speculative fire modifier because you know
he is in the area
Andrea
On Tue, Feb 9, 2010 at 3:06 PM, emilio_mn <mr_natcheal@...> wrote:
>
>
> Is Cpt Sfiligoi saying in page 12 that a character who goes to ground
> behind cover is no longer in sight? You shoot at a target who is behind a
> big rock, you win the roll so he falls to ground or gets shaken. Then you
> can't see him again until he recovers. Is this right?
>
> Emilio.
>
>
>
--
my games:
http://www.ganeshagames.net
my gaming blog:
http://ganeshagames.blogspot.com
My Twitter:
http://twitter.com/ganeshagames
My Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/ganeshagames
My Lulu shop:
http://www.lulu.com/songofblades
my fine art: www.yessy.com/umbra
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Is Cpt Sfiligoi saying in page 12 that a character who goes to ground behind
cover is no longer in sight? You shoot at a target who is behind a big rock, you
win the roll so he falls to ground or gets shaken. Then you can't see him again
until he recovers. Is this right?
Emilio.
I added the Song of the Splintered Lands abilities to the warband builder and
uploaded the file as SBHform1.2.13.html. Hopefully I'm not stepping on Ray's
toes too badly by doing this.
-Tim
Here is the code I added:
var Version = "1.2.13";
var UpdateDate = "February 9, 2010";
// v1.2.13 - Feb 09, 2010 - Added special rules from Song of the Splintered
Lands
Rulebook[6] = new BookInfo("Song of the Splintered Lands","SSL","#F0E68C",true);
SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Abbot",18,true,6,"31"));
SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Battlebeast",0,false,6,"31"));
SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Bodyguard",0,false,6,"31"));
SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Deaf",0,false,6,"32"));
SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Music",0,false,6,"32"));
SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Near Invulnerability",7,true,6,"31"));
SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Rare",0,false,6,"32"));
SpecialRule.push(new SpecialRuleEntry("Scout",3,false,6,"32"));
we do not put the values in the books because players tend to use them as
simple additions and the formula, as you can say, is a bit more complex than
that. You can't just say "oh I'll add Long move for 10 points" because the
whole cost of the model will change when you add a rule.
Andrea
On Tue, Feb 9, 2010 at 1:47 PM, timlillig <timlillig@...> wrote:
>
>
> The point costs are not in the books. You can get them from the warband
> builder, SBHform.html in the files. The value of each ability is the number
> next to it. I have written them next to the special rule name in my books. I
> forget exactly where I got the formula for calculating points. It is
> (C*5+S)(7-Q)/2 where C=combat, S=the total value of special abilities and
> Q=quality. I find it easier to just use the warband builder.
> -Tim
>
>
> --- In songofblades@yahoogroups.com <songofblades%40yahoogroups.com>, Chip
> Dunning <chip.dunning@...> wrote:
> >
> > I used to be a big Chronopia player until my local game store fell
> > under the siren song of GW and their insistence of no competition in
> > the store. I checked the group files to see if anyone has done up the
> > warbands and see nothing, so I am working on them myself. The problem
> > is that I cannot find where the point cost system is located in the
> > books. I have SoBH, SoGD, SoWW, SoAM. Do I need to get another book
> > that has the cost for the Quality and the Special features or am I
> > just missing the obvious under my nose and it is referenced on page xx
> > of the book.
> >
> > I know that I can use the JavaScript program to work them up, so those
> > point values had to come from somewhere.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Chip
> > "The reason the mainstream is considered a stream is because it's so
> > shallow" --George Carlin
> >
>
>
>
--
my games:
http://www.ganeshagames.net
my gaming blog:
http://ganeshagames.blogspot.com
My Twitter:
http://twitter.com/ganeshagames
My Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/ganeshagames
My Lulu shop:
http://www.lulu.com/songofblades
my fine art: www.yessy.com/umbra
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The point costs are not in the books. You can get them from the warband
builder, SBHform.html in the files. The value of each ability is the number
next to it. I have written them next to the special rule name in my books. I
forget exactly where I got the formula for calculating points. It is
(C*5+S)(7-Q)/2 where C=combat, S=the total value of special abilities and
Q=quality. I find it easier to just use the warband builder.
-Tim
--- In songofblades@yahoogroups.com, Chip Dunning <chip.dunning@...> wrote:
>
> I used to be a big Chronopia player until my local game store fell
> under the siren song of GW and their insistence of no competition in
> the store. I checked the group files to see if anyone has done up the
> warbands and see nothing, so I am working on them myself. The problem
> is that I cannot find where the point cost system is located in the
> books. I have SoBH, SoGD, SoWW, SoAM. Do I need to get another book
> that has the cost for the Quality and the Special features or am I
> just missing the obvious under my nose and it is referenced on page xx
> of the book.
>
> I know that I can use the JavaScript program to work them up, so those
> point values had to come from somewhere.
>
>
>
>
> Chip
> "The reason the mainstream is considered a stream is because it's so
> shallow" --George Carlin
>
All my figures are on round bases (coins) and I use Rich's method above but
this sounds a good idea for people with square bases
Andrea
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I too prefer not to use markers, cards, counters, templates and other table
clutter. Writing rules would be SO MUCH EASIER if we used markers :-)
Some people like them, some don't. It depends on what you want to model. For
example, in a big napoleonic game where you want to model attrition of
units, a color marker or casualty figure on the rear of the unit may be
needed and I can tolerate it. but in skirmish games, I prefer to use the
model's position (as suggested in FL). The miniatures are marker
themsleves...
We do use a marker in SDS to represent muskets that need to be reloaded,
in FL this is rare as most weapons are auto reloading at the end of the
turn.
It's not difficult as you are using a few figures anyway. I have seen some
people needing to mark who was activated , but I think that's needed only
for your first few games.
We discussed with Jim at Litko the idea to make a measuring triangle, I
think if there were enough requests they would do it
Andrea
On Tue, Feb 9, 2010 at 8:32 AM, Rich Jones <noserider@...> wrote:
>
>
> When writing I tried to avoid the need of markers as I hate them :)
> SO hopefully there are not too many that would be needed, the only real
> marker apart from customised cotton wool we use is a shaken marker, cheap
> from Peter Pig it is a little row of bullets kicking up dirt. BAM make some
> cool casualty markers, rifle in ground with helmet on top which could be
> used for KIA figures lying on their back.
> I always find the Litko colours and shapes very off putting on the table,
> but I realise that is just a personal thing :)
> Rich Jones
> Play games, have fun and go surfing ... it's simple!
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: Dale <dale_hurtt@... <dale_hurtt%40yahoo.com>>
> To: songofblades@yahoogroups.com <songofblades%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, 9 February, 2010 2:33:42
> Subject: [songofblades] Game Markers
>
>
> Has anyone thought about coming up with a list of markers that would be
> useful for Song of ... games and sent them on to Jim Hartwell of Litko Aero
> to see if he will make a token set? Reading through Flying Lead and I can
> think of a number of markers to use.
>
> Dale
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
--
my games:
http://www.ganeshagames.net
my gaming blog:
http://ganeshagames.blogspot.com
My Twitter:
http://twitter.com/ganeshagames
My Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/ganeshagames
My Lulu shop:
http://www.lulu.com/songofblades
my fine art: www.yessy.com/umbra
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
There is a point difference for grenades. Check the weapon builder. C3
grenades (WW2) are 6 points, grenades of C4 (modern) are 9 points, and
grenades C5 are 13 points. This should let you model all grenades from 1900
to near future, at least in the limited granularity of a d6 system .
One of the space costraints: 48 pages for a rulebook is already pushing the
limit, as the pdf becomes very heavy and some mailboxes can't take an
attachment that big. This translates into me having to write tho the
customer because the mail bounced, asking him to supply me with another
mailbox (everybody should just be using gmail, which is the best email
system in the world IMHO, and I'd be happy :-) and generally using a lot of
time on a single sale, or using a service/online shop that eats up 20% to
35% of the proceedings and gives me no way (or limited way) to know who
downloaded a game. I don't have the tech skills (or the money to hire
someone with the skills) to set up such a shop myself and my website is
designed on a template.
Then there's the problem of staples. Our books are meant to be saddle
stitched as the perfect binding offered so far by print on demand service
is, erm, less than "perfect" IMHO. So we need to keep the books to a
manageable page count, and that means 48 pages. The alternative would be
coil binding which is hated by stores and looks unprofessional.
Also more pages means more work and therefore higher cost.
A small skirmish game on broken terrain puts vehicles at a disadvantage so
we had to compromise. Surely on a good road vehicles are way better, but --
in one action they should be out of any gaming table anyway. There's a
problem of scale which is in the size of the game being played, and the
rules cannot do anything about it unless playing a designed scenario.
It's like people asking us to have artillery in SDS, a napoleonic game
which focuses on the actions of squads of 5-15 men. We put the artillery
rules in a supplement because we got many requests for them, but they just
don't make sense in casual play-- you need to design a scenario. You just
don't stumble upon a cannon by accident. Artillery makes more sense in big
engagements (napoleonic battles saw tens of thousands of soldiers per side),
in a skirmish situation the only action you can play is a short range
assault on a cannon by a group of light soldiers that have to "silence" the
gun. Same problems with the ancient rules and everybody wants a catapult--
a catapult wouldn't even be able to fire in these close quarters represented
by a 3 x 3' table (something like 120 square yards if I am correct).
Bikes tend to be useful in gang scenarios where they have a reason to be
there, not just "ah and Joe happens to be a biker". Realistically, being on
a bike puts you at an advantage only if you have to run away from a
skirmish, hardly something useful in a pick up game :-) You can make bikers
more powerful by giving them Running Blow as suggested in the rules, and
that would reflect the "reality" of movies and the post apocalyptic genre. I
have seen real world brawls with people with motorbikes and they dismount
the bike to fight, or run away before the engagement takes place :-)
By the way, if you watch the movies, the moment you see someone on a bike in
a fight you know next scene he'll end up crashing into a wall or rolling.
Andrea
On Tue, Feb 9, 2010 at 9:01 AM, richjonesgamer <noserider@...>wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi
>
>
> > Vehicle rules on the other hand are a little muddled, I think they
> should be good once I've played a few games with them but a few more
> examples and diagrams may have helped. You can tell that this is the new
> section.
> You should find they are intuitive ... we were very limited on space to
> keep the cost down at LULU I believe. I will put up a few photo play
> through guides in the next week just in case though.
>
> >
> > Now the queries:
> > Grenades are C3 in WWII and C4 modern but no points difference?
> The cost for having 'grenades' is standard, depending on the time frame
> in historical games the rating will be 2-5. The generic grenade is C3
> and should be used unless playing historical scenarios. It was put in to
> stop people complaining that modern grenades should be better etc. From
> a realistic point of view modern soldiers should have better grenades at
> less cost ... but then we are playing game :)
>
> > Similarly grenades have medium range and rifle grenades have long but
> there is no costing for rifle grenades (or should that be the grenade
> combat entry in the weapon builder?
> The effect of them is the same, the difference will be when building
> them points wise on the builder they have a long range which will bump
> the cost up etc.
>
> > > Some of the weapons in the squad builder have different points from
> what the weapon builder produces, assault rifle was 1 point out but one
> of the LMG's was a lot further out.
> Odd as they were checked a few times ... will check when I get time. Not
> saying that this is what happened, but remember the points cost produced
> by the weapon builder is not just 'added' to the figure cost .... it
> must be entered as a special and the formula is not straight forward ...
> a xpoint weapon added to a character will produce different outcome
> values depending on the character.
>
> > Riding a motorbike appears to be worse off than walking, you get more
> limits on movement for no extra distance. If you get the mounted bonus
> that might balance it a bit but I could argue both ways for that as a
> bike requies a lot more hands on than a horse. I'll probably redesign my
> bikes to have long movement, it just feels right to do so.
> The joy of the vehicle builder ... remember though in the confines of
> what the FL table represents (about 100m or so square) non armoured
> vehicles will not be that much of an advantage on the whole, esp when
> you take into account everything that isn't necessarily modelled on all
> our tables. The advantages of a bike in a combat situation (which is
> presumed in the games) are minimal ... on the plus side you get to do
> stunts on them :)Pumping them up to long is definitely an option ... the
> points cost will be a lot greater though so the advantages may not be
> worth it.
>
> >
> > Definately a good system but vehicle rules seem almost roleplaying
> style, designed for use with scenarios and or a GM, personally I like
> this but playing against my 15 year old son may lead to excessive rule
> lawyer arguments (thats the nature of 15 year olds, he'll grow out of
> it).
> Should be OK ... I am pretty notorious for using any trick the rules let
> me (when testing I might add, not just 'always') ... one reason the SOBH
> mechanics are so liked by my opponents is that there is less leaway in
> them. I think you should be OK ... within the confines of the table I
> suspect soft vehicles will not be as useful an item as most people
> imagine in their heads they will be ... there is a good reason that
> Panzer Grenadiers used to get out their 'armoured' carrier before combat
> started if at all possible :)
>
>
> >
> > I'll post more next week when I've played a few games.
> Look forward to hearing about it !
> >
> > Robert
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
--
my games:
http://www.ganeshagames.net
my gaming blog:
http://ganeshagames.blogspot.com
My Twitter:
http://twitter.com/ganeshagames
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
no estimates possible, please read here:
http://www.ganeshagames.net/work-in-progress/
andrea
On Tue, Feb 9, 2010 at 1:39 AM, wargamer1972 <leadlegions@...> wrote:
>
>
> Is there an estimate when the game will be available?
>
>
> --- In songofblades@yahoogroups.com <songofblades%40yahoogroups.com>,
> andrea sfiligoi <andreasfiligoi@...> wrote:
> >
> > If you base them for HOtt and have a frontage of 40mm, they'll be fine
> for
> > SAH as long as you place them on 40x40 trays. In other words, leava
> cavalry
> > artillery etc as they are, and for blades and others just place two of
> them
> > on a 40x40mm square of cardboard, so you can play both games.
> > You'll need a few single based personalities for SAH, for example 2-3
> > leaders, a mage or two minor mages, a hero, an assassin... these move
> > independently on the battlefield but CAN join units, and can be destroyed
> > when the mother unit is destroyed.
> >
> > The battlefield is larger in SAH so you need at least the equivalent of
> two
> > HOTT tables put one beside the other (a wide and narrow table, say 120mm
> x
> > 60mm in 15mm scale)
> > Andrea
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 10:06 PM, beezer1st <beez@...> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > I've decided to get back into some "mass" battles. I've been toying
> around
> > > with HotT and DBA. I'm ready to make a large investment in several 15mm
> > > armies for HotT...then I started thinking about Song of Armies and
> Hordes,
> > > and wondering how far along it is (I know it's in playtesting, but how
> long
> > > before it's in print?)?
> > >
> > > I'd sure like to take a look before I base everyhting up for HotT, and
> then
> > > find out I love the rules and have to do a tone of re-basing.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > my games:
> > http://www.ganeshagames.net
> >
> > my gaming blog:
> > http://ganeshagames.blogspot.com
> >
> > My Twitter:
> > http://twitter.com/ganeshagames
> >
> > My Facebook:
> > http://www.facebook.com/ganeshagames
> >
> > My Lulu shop:
> > http://www.lulu.com/songofblades
> >
> > my fine art: www.yessy.com/umbra
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
--
my games:
http://www.ganeshagames.net
my gaming blog:
http://ganeshagames.blogspot.com
My Twitter:
http://twitter.com/ganeshagames
My Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/ganeshagames
My Lulu shop:
http://www.lulu.com/songofblades
my fine art: www.yessy.com/umbra
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi
> Vehicle rules on the other hand are a little muddled, I think they
should be good once I've played a few games with them but a few more
examples and diagrams may have helped. You can tell that this is the new
section.
You should find they are intuitive ... we were very limited on space to
keep the cost down at LULU I believe. I will put up a few photo play
through guides in the next week just in case though.
>
> Now the queries:
> Grenades are C3 in WWII and C4 modern but no points difference?
The cost for having 'grenades' is standard, depending on the time frame
in historical games the rating will be 2-5. The generic grenade is C3
and should be used unless playing historical scenarios. It was put in to
stop people complaining that modern grenades should be better etc. From
a realistic point of view modern soldiers should have better grenades at
less cost ... but then we are playing game :)
> Similarly grenades have medium range and rifle grenades have long but
there is no costing for rifle grenades (or should that be the grenade
combat entry in the weapon builder?
The effect of them is the same, the difference will be when building
them points wise on the builder they have a long range which will bump
the cost up etc.
> > Some of the weapons in the squad builder have different points from
what the weapon builder produces, assault rifle was 1 point out but one
of the LMG's was a lot further out.
Odd as they were checked a few times ... will check when I get time. Not
saying that this is what happened, but remember the points cost produced
by the weapon builder is not just 'added' to the figure cost .... it
must be entered as a special and the formula is not straight forward ...
a xpoint weapon added to a character will produce different outcome
values depending on the character.
> Riding a motorbike appears to be worse off than walking, you get more
limits on movement for no extra distance. If you get the mounted bonus
that might balance it a bit but I could argue both ways for that as a
bike requies a lot more hands on than a horse. I'll probably redesign my
bikes to have long movement, it just feels right to do so.
The joy of the vehicle builder ... remember though in the confines of
what the FL table represents (about 100m or so square) non armoured
vehicles will not be that much of an advantage on the whole, esp when
you take into account everything that isn't necessarily modelled on all
our tables. The advantages of a bike in a combat situation (which is
presumed in the games) are minimal ... on the plus side you get to do
stunts on them :)Pumping them up to long is definitely an option ... the
points cost will be a lot greater though so the advantages may not be
worth it.
>
> Definately a good system but vehicle rules seem almost roleplaying
style, designed for use with scenarios and or a GM, personally I like
this but playing against my 15 year old son may lead to excessive rule
lawyer arguments (thats the nature of 15 year olds, he'll grow out of
it).
Should be OK ... I am pretty notorious for using any trick the rules let
me (when testing I might add, not just 'always') ... one reason the SOBH
mechanics are so liked by my opponents is that there is less leaway in
them. I think you should be OK ... within the confines of the table I
suspect soft vehicles will not be as useful an item as most people
imagine in their heads they will be ... there is a good reason that
Panzer Grenadiers used to get out their 'armoured' carrier before combat
started if at all possible :)
>
> I'll post more next week when I've played a few games.
Look forward to hearing about it !
>
> Robert
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
When writing I tried to avoid the need of markers as I hate them :)
SO hopefully there are not too many that would be needed, the only real marker
apart from customised cotton wool we use is a shaken marker, cheap from Peter
Pig it is a little row of bullets kicking up dirt. BAM make some cool casualty
markers, rifle in ground with helmet on top which could be used for KIA figures
lying on their back.
I always find the Litko colours and shapes very off putting on the table, but I
realise that is just a personal thing :)
Rich Jones
Play games, have fun and go surfing ... it's simple!
________________________________
From: Dale <dale_hurtt@...>
To: songofblades@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 9 February, 2010 2:33:42
Subject: [songofblades] Game Markers
Has anyone thought about coming up with a list of markers that would be useful
for Song of ... games and sent them on to Jim Hartwell of Litko Aero to see if
he will make a token set? Reading through Flying Lead and I can think of a
number of markers to use.
Dale
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi
The suggestions in the rules for laying figs down are just suggestions and
players are free to adopt whatever suits them, I have friends who just use
'chit' type markers while I am the sort of player who hates having dice or chits
down on my table etc. Your idea seems good; I just:
Prone (either from choice or as a result of knock down) - figure face down.
Shaken - figure face down with a 3d marker (I use the excellent row of bullets
kicking up dirt marker from Peter Pig which is cut in half. These are great
little visual aids) which just comes off when the character recovers from
shaken.
Out of Action - on their back
Dead - we use dead figures or just on their back (if it matters to know if they
are KIA or OOA then we orientate their bases to a home edge; base to enemy edge
= dead, home edge = OOA)
Hope you enjoy it!
Rich Jones
Play games, have fun and go surfing ... it's simple!
________________________________
From: mark_emms <mark_emms@...>
To: songofblades@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 9 February, 2010 0:01:42
Subject: [songofblades] Flying Lead Basing Ideas
I got the FL rules yesterday, read through them and can't wait to try them out!
My main area of interest is (was) WW1 but the rules are so flexible I'm really
tempted by Vietnam now..
Anyway I'll be testing the rules with some odd 15mm WW2 figures, Late War
Germans vs US Paras. Having read through the rules the position of a figure
laying down on the table seems quite important, so I've decided on the
following:
1. The figures are based on 2cm *square* bases giving flat edges to make their
position clear. Bases will be larger depending on scale used.
2. The *underneath* of the base is clearly marked with the figure's status once
its laid down - Prone, Shaken, Out Of Action (OOA) and Knocked Down, written
along each edge. So if the figure is 'Prone' its placed face down and the word
Prone is right way up at the top of the base. Similarly if its 'Knocked Down'
its laid on one side and Knocked Down is shown right way up etc. Writing on the
underside of the base makes the status obvious and straight base edges makes
the model stable once laid down. The figure's code number/letter if needed can
be added too.
3. The final positions (of the figure) are:
Face Down - Prone
Face Up - Shaken
Side Edges - one Knocked Down, the other Out of Action.
I hope I've got this right after the first read of the rules, and you might find
it useful. As always I stand to be corrected!
Cheers.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thought I'd post my initial impressions and queries now that I've had a couple
of days to read through it, havn't played yet but that should be soon.
Very nice, all the shooting, melee and morale sections have some nice tweaks to
bring them into line with modern firearms and it's very noticable how much
clearer than earlier games it is, definately shows that attention has been paid
to the questions that keep croping up from SBH et al.
Vehicle rules on the other hand are a little muddled, I think they should be
good once I've played a few games with them but a few more examples and diagrams
may have helped. You can tell that this is the new section.
Now the queries:
Grenades are C3 in WWII and C4 modern but no points difference?
Similarly grenades have medium range and rifle grenades have long but there is
no costing for rifle grenades (or should that be the grenade combat entry in the
weapon builder?
Some of the weapons in the squad builder have different points from what the
weapon builder produces, assault rifle was 1 point out but one of the LMG's was
a lot further out.
Riding a motorbike appears to be worse off than walking, you get more limits on
movement for no extra distance. If you get the mounted bonus that might balance
it a bit but I could argue both ways for that as a bike requies a lot more hands
on than a horse. I'll probably redesign my bikes to have long movement, it just
feels right to do so.
Definately a good system but vehicle rules seem almost roleplaying style,
designed for use with scenarios and or a GM, personally I like this but playing
against my 15 year old son may lead to excessive rule lawyer arguments (thats
the nature of 15 year olds, he'll grow out of it).
I'll post more next week when I've played a few games.
Robert
I rather like that idea and I think I am going to steal it! :-)
Paul
Death is a feather,
duty a mountain.
Nice guys do really finish last.
To: songofblades@yahoogroups.com
From: mark_emms@...
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 00:01:42 +0000
Subject: [songofblades] Flying Lead Basing Ideas
I got the FL rules yesterday, read through them and can't wait to try them out!
My main area of interest is (was) WW1 but the rules are so flexible I'm really
tempted by Vietnam now..
Anyway I'll be testing the rules with some odd 15mm WW2 figures, Late War
Germans vs US Paras. Having read through the rules the position of a figure
laying down on the table seems quite important, so I've decided on the
following:
1. The figures are based on 2cm *square* bases giving flat edges to make their
position clear. Bases will be larger depending on scale used.
2. The *underneath* of the base is clearly marked with the figure's status once
its laid down - Prone, Shaken, Out Of Action (OOA) and Knocked Down, written
along each edge. So if the figure is 'Prone' its placed face down and the word
Prone is right way up at the top of the base. Similarly if its 'Knocked Down'
its laid on one side and Knocked Down is shown right way up etc. Writing on the
underside of the base makes the status obvious and straight base edges makes the
model stable once laid down. The figure's code number/letter if needed can be
added too.
3. The final positions (of the figure) are:
Face Down - Prone
Face Up - Shaken
Side Edges - one Knocked Down, the other Out of Action.
I hope I've got this right after the first read of the rules, and you might find
it useful. As always I stand to be corrected!
Cheers.
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I got the FL rules yesterday, read through them and can't wait to try them out!
My main area of interest is (was) WW1 but the rules are so flexible I'm really
tempted by Vietnam now..
Anyway I'll be testing the rules with some odd 15mm WW2 figures, Late War
Germans vs US Paras. Having read through the rules the position of a figure
laying down on the table seems quite important, so I've decided on the
following:
1. The figures are based on 2cm *square* bases giving flat edges to make their
position clear. Bases will be larger depending on scale used.
2. The *underneath* of the base is clearly marked with the figure's status once
its laid down - Prone, Shaken, Out Of Action (OOA) and Knocked Down, written
along each edge. So if the figure is 'Prone' its placed face down and the word
Prone is right way up at the top of the base. Similarly if its 'Knocked Down'
its laid on one side and Knocked Down is shown right way up etc. Writing on the
underside of the base makes the status obvious and straight base edges makes
the model stable once laid down. The figure's code number/letter if needed can
be added too.
3. The final positions (of the figure) are:
Face Down - Prone
Face Up - Shaken
Side Edges - one Knocked Down, the other Out of Action.
I hope I've got this right after the first read of the rules, and you might find
it useful. As always I stand to be corrected!
Cheers.
On 2/8/2010 5:31 PM, Noel Vh wrote:
> What could be better than good looking cheap minis to play with.
Hmmm....
--
Charlie
"The best doctor in the world is the veterinarian. He can't ask his
patients what is the matter - he's got to just know." - Will Rogers
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