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When you sit down at a table at an online Poker room, ready to play
your chosen tournament, you are allocated a specific number of chips.
The amount can vary greatly but it's the same for each player, giving
each an equal start. Typically you receive around 500-2000 in chips
and your aim is to try and win chips from your rival opponents whilst
at the same time trying to avoid going broke. If you run out of chips
and there are re-buys you can stay in the game, but if the re-buy
period has ended you must leave the game and are eliminated from the
competition. If you survive long enough, your finishing position
determines how much money you have won.

Tournament play is sub-divided into levels which are defined either
by a pre-determined number of hands to be played (say 10 or 20), or
more commonly by a fixed period of time (from 5 to 30 minutes). Each
level is differentiated from the previous one by an increase in the
blinds being played.

The Blinds are the two forced bets placed by the two players
immediately to the left of the dealer (or button) position. They
typically double or increase by 50% from one level to the next and
ensure that players are unable to simply sit at the table without
playing any hands. The blinds also generate some initial action. In
reality they act as forced bets and the smaller one of the two is
called the Small Blind which is to the immediate left of the dealer
whilst the other one is called the Big Blind. The Big Blind is
usually double in size to the Small Blind but sometimes it is only
one and half times its size.

When play begins you can bet any amount from the size of the Big
Blind up to the total amount in front of you (your chip stack size)
and this is why the game is called No Limit Poker (as compared to
Limit or Pot Limit Poker when there are limits on how much you can
bet). Any time you put all your chips into the pot you are said to
be "All In." Needless to say, if your bet is called and your opponent
has more chips than you, the only chips you can win are those up to
the size of those chips you yourself have put into the pot.
Furthermore, should you lose that hand against an opponent with more
chips than yourself, you are eliminated.

Two cards are dealt to each player face down and these are known as
the players' Hole Cards. A round of betting then follows after which
three cards are placed face up in the middle of the table (this is
referred to as The Flop). Another round of betting follows and then a
fourth up card in the middle of the table called The Turn or Fourth
Street is exposed. Another round of betting takes place followed by a
final fifth up card on Fifth Street or The River, as it is more
commonly known. A final round of betting then takes place after which
we have The Showdown, where all the cards are exposed and the best
hand wins.

The winning hand is the one that contains the best hand made up from
any five cards from the seven cards available from the five cards in
the middle of the table (the Board Cards) and each player's two hole
cards. A player may use one, two or none of his hole cards to make
his best possible hand and where there is a tie the pot is split
between all the joint winning hands.

Any time a solitary player is left at the table with uncalled or
uncontested bets - he/she is declared the winner and does not have to
show his/her cards.

These are the basics to the game and now we'll move on to how we can
actually best play the game.

From http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

Watching and categorizing opponents will also help you in your play
from the flop onwards. If for example you find yourself involved with
an aggressive player who is going to be acting/betting after you then
it may be preferable for you to check to him when you flop a good
hand in the knowledge that he is almost guaranteed to bet or take a
stab at the pot. In this way you get to win more chips off this kind
of opponent as by betting you give him a chance to fold without
giving you more of his chips.

Conversely, a meek or passive player in a pot with yourself may be
prepared to fold a hand that may or may not be better than yours if
you bet into him on the flop. The likelihood is that both of you
missed the flop but by betting he may choose to fold and could even
fold if he/she has hit the middle or bottom pair. Hence you can see
that different types of opponents can be played differently from the
flop onwards but to do this you must have paid attention previously
so that you could categorize your opponent.

The play before the flop is much easier to conduct than at any other
stage of a hand as you merely need to decide whether or not your hand
is worth playing and for how much. Put simply - you can decide how
much you are prepared to put in the pot and whether or not you are
prepared to play for a raise or indeed for all your chips. However,
once you reach the flop the fact that there are three exposed cards
means that you now have to try and ascertain how good your hand is
compared to any others who are also in the pot. This may sound
straightforward and simple but in reality it is rather complex as
there are almost an infinite number of combinations of cards that may
now make your own hand seem quite weak.

So what are you supposed to do? Basically you have to try and
determine what kinds of hands your opponents may be holding against
you and to do this you need to try and utilize the information you
have collected about your opponents along with recalling their
betting patterns before the flop.

If you raised in early position and got two callers, then you have to
ask yourself what kinds of hands your opponents would have called
with. If this scenario is correct, it is most likely that they are
holding a pair or two big cards (as these are the better type of
starting hands) as they would be foolish to have called you with weak
hole cards. Hence if the flop came up 224 off suit you would expect
to have little to fear as these kinds of cards are extremely unlikely
to be in your opponents hands. With a flop of TJQ with two hearts
however, you may have to show some concern as you would have expected
your opponents to have called with cards matching this type of flop.

Basically the way to proceed with a hand very much depends on the
nature and texture of the flop. Because you will never have the
opportunity of knowing for sure what an opponent is holding it is
best to simply bet when you have some kind of hand that has a chance
of winning and to check when you do not.

Essentially - when you think you are in front you should bet and if
you think you are behind you should fold. You should also bet when
you think the board has failed to assist your opponents and check or
fold when you believe it is likely that it helped your opponents.

Perhaps what I am saying is that from the flop onwards you need to
take care as a pre flop strong hand may now be rendered much weaker
depending on what comes on the board. The more cards out on the board
the more combinations of winning cards that exist and the stronger
the possible range of hands that could be held against you arises.

From: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

So how do these things translate into reality?

Already we have seen that you need stronger starting hands if you are
in early positions compared to weaker ones if in later position but
here are a couple of examples.

If you are first to act after the blinds, many people will not
consider playing anything other than a pair of Tens or better or any
AK/AQ/AJ or a KQ or QJs (suited). These would generally be considered
the minimum requirements for even playing a hand from an early
position and there are others that wouldn't play the AJ, QJs or the
KQ (unless suited), or even the pair of Tens. This alone should
indicate to you that many believe that the disadvantage of position
means they really do need a very premium hand. Another problem with
playing weaker hands from early position is that because this is big
bet poker you want to avoid playing hands that will often make you
second best hand when you are involved in a pot.

Because people tend to play a little tighter in tournaments (you
cannot reach into your pocket for more chips like you can reach for
more cash in a cash game) you will find that when you enter a pot,
others coming in behind you tend to have stronger than usual hands.
Hence if you play things like AJ from early position you tend to find
that a bigger hand like AQ will be calling behind you. If
subsequently you hit an Ace on the flop or board you will find
yourself in a very dangerous position - thinking you have the best
hand but actually having a far worse one. Similarly when you play
things like KJ, others behind you often have a better hand even when
you get action after a Jack falls on the flop.

Of course it is possible to play weaker hands from earlier positions
but you should mainly refrain from doing so except in exceptional
circumstances. Firstly, you need to worry about raises behind you
because then you will be forced to throw away your hand and not even
get to see a flop. Even so, there is nothing wrong with coming in
from time to time, especially if your opponents are playing tamely
(ie with few if any raises pre-flop). Ideally you still only want to
really play these weaker starting hands like suited connectors and
small to medium pairs in late position but at least you will get to
see the odd flop and if you hit perfectly or a monster draw you may
get the chance to win a big pot.

The key point here, however, is that you are still going to have flop
nigh on perfectly as hitting a 7 holding an 87s with one or two over
cards on board is nothing more than a recipe for disaster and losing
lots of chips as invariably someone holds a better hand.

If you do insist on playing weaker starting hands out of position you
should also note that the preferred type of hand that you should play
is something like an Ax suited. The beauty of this kind of hand is
that if you flop an Ace it may be good (although you should still
proceed with extreme caution) but you may flop the nut flush or a
draw to the best possible flush.

It is important to remember at this point that because there is a lot
of money at stake, drawing to nut flushes is infinitely preferable to
trying to make the second or third best flush. It is surprisingly
frequent for more than one person to be drawing to a flush
(particularly in multi way pots) and so to be trying to get the best
one is a distinct advantage.

In the same way, playing those small and mid pairs is done in the
hope that you flop a set (also known as trips or three of a kind)
rather than playing them as though they are the best hand -
invariably over cards come on the flop and board which make them
difficult to play on subsequent betting rounds.

As previously pointed out, a number of criteria need to be met before
you can even consider playing weaker starting hands. One thing you
must consider is your opponent's chip stack size. Before you play the
suited connectors or small to medium pairs from any position you need
to know that it is worth your while to play them.

If, for example, your opponent has 2000 in chips and makes it 150
from early position when the blinds are 25/50, and you only have 600
in chips, it is simply not worth your while playing a pair of 2s. Put
simply - you will flop a 2 around 1 in 7 or 1 in 8 times but you will
only be able to win four times your initial calling bet so you should
throw your pair of 2s away!

Similarly, when playing suited connectors and someone has already
entered the pot ahead of you, never really want to call unless you
can win around 20 times the amount you have to bet (ie with drawing
hands like suited connectors you never really want to put more than
5% of your or your opponents stack into the pot). Remember - you can
only win as much as you have in front of you against each opponent
and as much as each opponent has in front of them so it is pointless
playing for a 100 pre flop bet unless both you and your opponent have
2000 in chips. The reason for this is that you will have to fold your
hand on the overwhelming majority of flops and as such it simply
isn't worth your while playing these weak hands as they are simply
too costly to play in the long term.

Of course it is fantastic when you do hit a great flop and go on to
win a monster pot and possibly break/bust someone but this happens
all too infrequently. Often many players will not even call with the
smaller pairs even though they are around a 7/1 shot to make trips
unless they are again getting 20/1 for their original bet as it is
always possible that you will find an opponent with a bigger flopped
set.

FRom: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

Learn to try and re-evaluate the strength of your hand as the board
has additional cards added to it. The best way of gauging this is to
try and calculate which stronger possible hands are possible holdings
for your opponents and generally speaking the betting patterns will
help you determine this.

For example, if there are two hearts on the flop and you bet and an
opponent calls and then a non heart comes on the turn and you bet
again and again get called, then if an opponent raises you or bets
into you on the river when a third heart comes out there is a
definite possibility of him having made a flush. Your opponent may
not actually have a flush on the river but generally people that are
calling you down without showing much strength are on a draw without
a made hand which means they are drawing to a flush or straight.

The amount you bet and that gets called can also help in deciding
whether or not your opponent is drawing to a flush or straight as
usually the amount you bet dictates whether they already have a made
hand like top pair or are on the draw. (The more you bet in relation
to the pot size on the turn, the harder it is for them to call when
drawing to a better hand - open-ended straight draws need around 9/2
whilst flush draws need around 4/1).

Betting is the language of poker and until you find resistance from
your opponents you can assume that you have the best hand. When and
if they raise you, then you can assume that they have a stronger
hand. Think of betting as speaking whilst raising is shouting and re-
raising is screaming that someone has a better hand.

Being the original bettor is an important aspect of poker as whenever
you bet you give yourself a chance of winning a pot right there and
then regardless of whether or not you have the best hand. By calling
someone you essentially are saying that you have a hand that needs to
improve and that you are prepared to play in the hope of catching up
to an opponent who has already bet or that you are not sure that you
may have the best hand.

Being the aggressor is essential for winning poker and so influential
that you will often find that you cause opponents to fold stronger
hands than yours. As a consequence, you also need to accept that
sometimes you too will be forced to lay down a stronger hand than
your opponent pure and simply because your opponent has bet first.

FROM: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

Generally speaking, the best hands at the start of a game will be the
best cards at the end of the game and as such, this impacts greatly
on strategy. Put simply - you wish to play only good starting cards
as by doing so you give yourself a better chance of winning. The best
hands invariably involve the big cards. This means big pairs like
Tens and upwards or AK or AQ (Ace King or Ace Queen). Unfortunately
these hands are dealt to you all too infrequently so there are
actually other hands that you can play but only if suitable
conditions arise.

Due to the nature of the game, one very significant aspect is your
position relative to your rivals. It is a definite advantage to be
able to act after your opponents as by doing so on each betting round
you get to see the strength of their hands through their betting
actions before deciding whether or not to proceed with your own hand.

If you have to act first you are at a big disadvantage. To compensate
for this you need to have stronger hands when acting first. Likewise
when acting later than opponents you can play with relatively weaker
hands as you will get to see their actions first, but you should not
take this too far as it does not mean that you can play anything just
because you have position on an opponent.

To define your position you are said to be in an early position at
the table if you are in the first three seats immediately to the left
of the blinds. You are in mid position if you are in the next three
seats and in late position if you are on the dealer button or
immediately to the right of the dealer button. There are also the
blind positions which are always first to act on any betting round
(except before the flop) and as such always have a disadvantage.

It is true that any two cards can win but this has little to do with
the rank of cards that you play but more to do with the betting
associated with your cards and this shall be covered later.

For now, suffice to say that when you are going to have others acting
behind you on a betting round, you need a much stronger hand than if
you have them acting before you.

From: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

We are now getting into the realms of pot odds and implied pot odds.
An example of this is where your original bet is 100 to the pot size
of 300 - meaning you are getting 3/1 for your money now. But in the
future, your implied odds may be 2000 to the 100 or 20/1 because this
represents the maximum you can win off your opponent in the hand as
that is his stack size.

Pot odds are what you are getting in this instant or immediately
while implied odds are the odds of the amount of chips you may win if
you get to flop a monster and get an opponent's whole stack or at
least a large part of it. Unfortunately, nothing is ever this
straightforward in poker as the implied odds assume that nobody
behind you will re-raise forcing you to fold your hand. In reality,
these have to be reduced downwards to compensate for such occurrences.

As a general rule, unless you are in early position, if you are first
to enter a pot in mid to late position you should come in with a
raise. The reason for this is that there is a high propensity for
players to fold when faced with a raise. There is a good chance that
if you have a playable hand you will pick up the uncontested blinds
just by raising. However, remember that if you are called it is very
likely that the caller will be holding a stronger hand!

Playing the premium starting hands like the big pairs (Jacks and up)
and AK are a little different. Because your starting hand is so
strong you tend to have more options in the way you can play them but
you should remember that with these kinds of hands you should prefer
to play against few opponents rather than many. With the small pairs
and suited connectors you want multiple opponents or multi way action
and to see a flop cheaply as usually you will have to throw it away
on the flop and as such you need to get those high implied odds.

With the bigger pairs and AK you are happy to raise and get lots of
money in pre flop. Invariably any opponents will be few and they will
have to be playing catch up which is difficult to do with a worse
starting hand. However you should not forget that an AK is merely an
Ace high and worthless unless it improves so do not get too carried
away if you miss the flop and someone bets into you or raises. No
pair is no pair whether you hold a 23 or an AK from the flop onwards.
You should also remember that a big pair tends to only win a
relatively small pot whilst the smaller pairs and suited connectors
win bigger ones.

Another key area of no limit play is deception. Whenever you get to
fool opponents into thinking you have a different hand from the one
you are actually holding they are prone to making mistakes. If you
raised pre flop they often assume that you are holding a pair or big
cards so by varying your play you can mislead them at a future stage
of the tournament (if they are paying attention). Because of this it
can be very rewarding to play similar or the same hand in differing
ways so when you raise, try and do so in a random fashion. Typically
when you enter a pot your raise should be around 2 to 5 times the big
blind. However if you always raise twice the big blind with Aces and
4 times with Tens, astute opponents will pick this up and use it
against you at a later stage. If your table has aggressive players
acting behind you and they are always re-raising you when you limp,
then by all means limp next time with aces so you can re-raise them
when they raise you. Similarly, if you notice people behind you are
calling your raises with very weak cards, then by all means put a
larger than usual raise in next time you get Aces as you are going to
make them pay a premium for calling your strong hand with garbage.
Perhaps what I am trying to say is that you should vary your play
according to your opponents' style of play. By doing so you will
confuse them as to what you may or may not be holding whilst at the
same time maximizing your effectiveness against them.

From: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

Both Single Table Tournaments and Multi Table Tournaments can serve as
qualifiers for special tournaments - the qualifiers are
called "Satellite Tournaments" and the winner/s wins a seat in the main
event.

From: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

Categorize your opponents - Look at your opponents and study them.
Watch how they play and try to categorize their play into aggressive
or passive where aggressive players are those that are constantly
raising or re-raising and the passive ones are those that continually
just limp or call. You also need to classify them into loose or tight
players where loose ones are those that play too many hands and
weaker hands out of position whilst the tight ones are those that
only play premium or strong hands in relation to their position. By
trying to fool your opponents by varying your play you will give
yourself every chance of fooling your opponents into making mistakes
as they will have a hard time placing you on a hand. In essence, try
and be gloriously unpredictable in the way that you play.

Check the chip stacks - You need to know exactly how large or small a
stack size each of your opponents already involved in the pot is
holding as well as those yet to act behind you as you will find that
the biggest stacks and the tiniest stacks are more prone to call
others involved in the pot. Tiny stacks call because they are getting
desperate whilst the largest stacks do this as they can afford it and
are looking for opportunities to bust and eliminate other players.
You also need to know where the larger stacks are at your table as
you need to give those players respect as they can eliminate you in a
solitary hand.

What are your opponents playing? Even when you are not directly
involved in a hand you should watch your opponents to try and see
what kind of cards they are playing from the relative early mid and
late positions as this can provide you with invaluable information
later on.

Because the tables and players are constantly being broken up the
turnover of players seems to be quite high in online tournaments but
it will help you to make notes on your opponents against their online
names. You can either do this manually in a little notebook that you
can keep by the side of your computer or ideally via the note
facility that exists on most if not all online sites. In this way
whenever you come up against the same opponents later on in the
tournament or even on another day you will have some information that
may guide you to making the correct or best plays.

Re-evaluate your hand as the board develops - Learn to re-evaluate
your hand as the board develops and try and back your judgment when
placing your opponents on hands. With experience you will get better
and better at this and just because you will get it wrong from time
to time is no reason for giving up. The important thing is to be
prepared to back that judgment as no limit poker is a game of fear.
If you are scared of going broke then you are effectively reducing
your chances of winning as absolutely nobody ever gets it right all
the time. If you are prepared to stick your chips into the pot first
then you are giving yourself a chance of winning.

No Limit Hold-em is a game of mistakes and the players that make the
least mistakes are the ones that win. It is also a game of incomplete
information so the more you have to go on against an opponent the
more chance you have of making a more accurate decision.

Hopefully by following these elementary guidelines you will give
yourself a chance of better success than your rivals but No-Limit
Hold-em tournament poker is a very complex game and as such may take
years to master. However following these types of guidelines or at
least attempting to watch and categorize your opponents will be a
massive step in the right direction for improving your game and
giving yourself every chance of success.

Good luck to you all and hope to meet you all at the table sometime.

FROM: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

So you want to play poker do you?

Well step right up and enjoy the rollercoaster ride to fame, fortune
and fun! But before sitting down at a table, please ask yourself a
couple of simple questions:

Can I afford to play in this tournament? How long will it take and am
I able to spare the time? What are my objectives and what are the
goals and rules for this tournament?

If you know all the answers then you are ready to begin.

This is the age of the Internet - the information highway - and
online poker is played at a very fast pace. Often you'll find that
you get double the number of hands per hour than you get dealt in
real life tournaments. You'll have to make your decisions a little
quicker but there's still plenty of time to act.

But firstly a quick run down on the types of tournaments available.

Sit & Go Single Table Tournament - STT. These are single table
tournaments where the winner takes home the prize but usually there
is some kind of runner up or even third place consolation prize as
well.

Multiple Table Tournament - MTT. These are more like regular
tournaments where approximately the top ten percent of places win
cash prizes with the prizes increasing as you get to the top of the
prize ladder.

There are also Single Table Satellites and Multiple Table Super
Satellites where the winners qualify to get into subsequent
tournaments like MTTs. The difference here, however, is that in the
Single Table Satellite only the winner goes through whilst in
Multiple Table or Super Satellites there are a group of joint winners
who go through to a future tournament.

Tournaments are then sub-divided into two basic types: Freezeouts and
Re-buy tournaments.

In a Freezeout you cannot buy any more chips and when you go broke
you have to leave the tournament. Re-buy tournaments allow you to
purchase more chips during the early stages of a tournament but
usually there are pre-qualifications, such as you have to have less
than your starting stack amount or it has to be during the first
three or four levels of a tournament. At the end of the re-buy period
you are also allowed to Add-on to your chip stack by purchasing
further chips. After this, the tournament proceeds in the same way as
a freezeout. In other words, you play until you go broke so you had
better look after your chips!

Hopefully this clears up the basic differences between the different
types of tournaments. There are also differing types of poker, but
the overwhelming majority offered today are No Limit Hold'em and this
is the style of poker that shall be described here.

from: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

You have very little control over the cards that are dealt to you and
those that appear on the board, but you do have complete control over
which cards you choose to play. If you only play good starting hands
then you give yourself a better chance of success in the game. No
matter how hard you try, you cannot turn bad cards into good ones.
The selection of starting hands is probably the single most important
area of the game as it is completely within your control, unlike all
the other areas.

Do not fall into the trap of trying to turn losing cards into
winners. Successfully bluffing someone who has a better hand is
possible and a delight to watch when you get away with it but all too
often you will be found out and it will cost you chips and so this is
a very overrated part of the game.

Generally the rivals you encounter at a table on the Internet are a
little looser or wilder than in real life games which means they tend
to play weaker starting hands. The best way to play against these
types of players is to ensure that you play better starting hands
than them. If you can do this, you will automatically win more chips
off them than they will win off you, pure and simple! As pointed out
above, the best starting hand stand up more often. (This doesn't mean
you will always win, just that in the long term you will do better).

Having looked down at your hole cards you must decide what you are
going to do. If you're not going to play and you're not in the blinds
where you have been forced to bet before receiving any cards - you
simply fold. If you wish to play, you need to decide what you are
going to bet. Your first option is to simply call the big blind which
means that you merely put in amount equal to the size of the big
blind. If the blinds are 15 and 30 it means that you put in chips to
the value of 30. Your other option if playing is to raise, and if
this is your preferred action you further need to consider how much
you wish to raise.

Before doing this, however, you need to think about how your table is
playing. Whilst waiting for appropriate cards to play you should be
paying attention and watching your opponents. If your rivals are
generally raising and re-raising then there seems little point in
your limping in by just calling as in all likelihood someone behind
you is going to raise and then re-raise which is going to force you
to lay down your hand prior to the flop.

If the opponents are more passive and tend to just call opening
callers or bettors then it allows you to play a greater range of
hands. This means that you are likely to get to the flop relatively
cheaply. Here in lies one of the key aspects of playing no limit
tournaments. Namely, you should be watching your opponents and noting
how they play. Depending on how your opponents play will impact
directly on the kinds of cards you can play.

Another key factor that affects starting hand criteria will also be
how many chips you have to play with along with the number of chips
your opponents have to put into play against you.

As already mentioned, your selection of which starting hands to play
is completely within your own control. To summarize thus far - there
are three key factors to consider before deciding to play a hand. The
importance of this cannot be overstated as it can mean the difference
between either playing a hand for a call, or the same hand for a
raise, or even throwing that very same hand away.

1. Your position (relative to your opponents on betting rounds).
2. The aggressiveness/passiveness or style in which your opponents
play.
3. The chip stack sizes held by you and your opponents.

FROM: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

Omaha
Omaha poker follows the same rules as Texas Hold'em poker, but with two
exceptions

Players are dealt four "pocket" cards instead of two.
Players must use two "pocket" cards and three "community" cards to make
their best high hand.
The principle is the same, but the two differences in the rules demand
a very different strategy for playing Omaha Poker.

Thanks to: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

Multi Table Tournaments
Tournaments differ from cash games in several ways. While the general
playing of the game remains the same there are certain rules that
apply to tournaments only.

Disconnections
If for any reason a Player loses his/her connection, play will
continue. Blinds and antes will continue to be posted automatically.
A Player should log back on as soon as possible to continue play.
Players will be blinded/anted out of the tournament if they do not
reconnect.

Players MUST accept the risk of disconnection. This can and does
occur. (Log back on and continue play as quickly as possible.) At no
time will we assume responsibility for disconnected players
regardless of cause. If a Player is disconnected during the play of a
hand, they will be given a period of time in which to re-connect -
about 30 seconds. If the player is not able to do so, their hand is
folded unless they are "all in". If you choose to sit out, you are
deemed 'away from the table' and will still receive cards that will
be folded in turn. Blinds will also continue to be taken when
appropriate. If you time-out or disconnect, you will be automatically
marked 'away from the table' until you uncheck the appropriate box
and re-join the game.

Play
You can join by clicking the "Tournament" tab in the lobby and
choosing a tournament that is still open for registration. When your
chosen tournament starts your table will open automatically. All
seats are assigned randomly. Please bear in mind that if you're
already playing in the maximum number of tables allowed (3 tables
when in top view mode and 1 table when in side view mode) you'll be
presented with a dialog box asking you whether you'd like to quit one
of the tables so the tournament table launches. You will be
marked 'away from the table' until you join the tournament table.
Blinds increase at regular intervals as the tournament progresses and
are termed 'levels'. Unlike cash games, blinds must be posted and
cannot be missed. This is done automatically. To make it fair for
everyone a dead button is sometimes used to achieve this.

The software will keep tables balanced in terms of the number of
players seated at each; consequently, as players are eliminated, you
may be re-seated at a different table. As this is done randomly you
may experience it several times during a tournament. As the number of
players remaining reduces, the software will close tables in order of
the highest available until the final table is reached. Once a player
loses all their chips they are automatically removed from the table
unless a 'Buy In' facility is available. Buy In' Tournaments provide
the facility to purchase a new set of chips for a limited time if you
go broke.

Thanks to: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

A single-table tournament is exactly that - a tournament played on one
table with up to ten players. These are run on a fill and go basis. As
players register the seats fill up and as soon as a table is full the
tournament starts. There are no break periods. Tournaments will
continue until they are finished. Three prizes are paid; the winner
takes 50%, second 30% and third 20%*. Wide ranges of buy in stakes are
offered and these can be seen by checking the "Tournaments" tab in the
lobby.

From: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

Omaha Hi/Low follows the same rules as regular Omaha, but there is an
additional way to win a share of the pot. The Hi winner is the player
with the best poker hand, as in Omaha High Only. But in addition to a
Hi winner, there can be a Low winner. The Low hand is a hand with 5
different cards below a 9. You must use two pocket cards and three
community cards to make a low hand. For example, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8 of
any suit would be a Low hand. The lowest Low hand is the Low winner.
In case of a Low winner, the pot is split 50/50 between the Low and
High winner. In case of multiple Low hands, the Low winner is
determined by comparing the highest of the low cards, then the second
highest, etc. If the two or more Low hands are equal, the Low pot is
split between them. Because there must be at least three different
low cards (under 9) on the board at the end to enable a qualifying
low hand there may not be a Low winner every hand. Also, a player may
use different pocket cards for Hi and for Low, from the four cards
dealt to him along with any three community cards, where again
different cards may be used for the high hand to the low hand. In Hi
Low Omaha the lowest possible hand is 5,4,3,2,A of any suits (flushes
and straights do not count against you for the low hand). Ace counts
as high and low and therefore the same ace can be used to make a high
hand and a low hand.

Pot Limit games
Pot Limit games differ from the Limit games by the betting and
raising amounts allowed: The minimum raise amount is the previous bet
or raise in the same hand. For example, if the first player bet $10,
the second player can raise a minimum of $10. The maximum raise
amount is the total betting pot + total bets of other players in the
betting round + the call amount of the player. For example, if the
pot is $50, the first player bets $10 and the second player calls
$10, the third player can raise up to $80 ($50 in the main pot + $20
from past bets in the round + $10 of the player's own call).

No Limit games
No Limit games differ from the Limit games in the fact that there is
no maximum to each raise (apart from the player's table balance).

Thanks to: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/

Texas Hold'em
Up to 10 players (plus a virtual dealer) are sitting at a table. If
you have selected Side View, you will see avatars representing the
players. In front of one of the players is a button with a "D" on it.
This is called the dealer button. The dealer button moves one
position to the left before each game round. This button originates
from when players in the group took turns to deal the cards. In our
poker room,there is a virtual dealer (shown in side view) who does
the actual dealing (sitting in the middle of the left side of the
table, behind the big box of chips). The virtual dealer does not
participate in the game in any way other than dealing cards.

The Game Round
This is how the game round goes (examples shown are for limit poker):

Blinds
First, the two players directly to the left of the dealer button (not
the virtual dealer!) must post "blinds", that is to place a bet
before getting cards. This is to ensure that every winning hand wins
some money. Since the dealer button moves on every game round,
everyone has to post blinds at some point in the game. The player to
the immediate left of the dealer button posts the "small blind,"
equal to half of the minimum stake (e.g. $2.5 for a $5/$10 game). The
player to the left of the small blind posts the "big blind," equal to
the amount of the minimum stake (e.g. $5 for a $5/$10 game).

Pocket Cards
After the blinds, first cards are dealt. Every player gets two cards
face down. These are called pocket cards.

Bet round 1
Betting begins with the player immediately to the left of the big
blind and continuing in a clockwise direction around the table. Every
player can fold, call or raise. Raising is possible by the lower
table stake ($5 in a $5/$10 game) only. Betting is explained in more
detail below.

The Flop Cards
Now three cards are dealt face up in the middle of the table. These
cards are called the flop cards. These are "community" cards and can
be used by all the players to make up their hand.

Bet round 2
Second round of betting follows. This is carried out exactly as the
first betting round.

The Turn Card
After the second round of betting, a fourth "community" card is dealt
face up in the middle of the table. This is called the "Turn card".
It is followed by a third round of betting.

Bet round 3
This round, again, is carried out just like the first and the second,
with one exception: raising is possible only by the higher table
stake ($10 in a $5/$10 game).

The River Card
Finally, a fifth and final "community" card is dealt. It is called
the "River card" and is followed by a fourth and final round of
betting.

Bet round 4
This final betting round is carried out exactly as the third.

Showdown
After the final betting round, the best five-card hand is determined.
Both the pocket cards and the community cards can be used to make up
a hand. The player with the best five-card poker hand wins the pot.
Players can also split the pot if they have the same hand. In the
rare case of the best hand consisting of community cards only, the
pot is divided between all the players left in the pot at the
showdown. If you see that you are losing, and do not want to show
your cards, you can Muck, that is to give up your hand and lose the
pot. Otherwise you can Show to compare your hand with others.

Start again
After a hand is completed and the pot taken by the winner, the dealer
button is moved one player to the left, and the next hand begins.

Betting system
The player left of the big blind starts the betting round, betting
order goes around the table clockwise. Everyone is betting according
to what they think their hand will lead to.

Fold
If you don't like your cards, you can fold. If you have posted a
blind, made a bet or raised a bet, you will lose that money. But you
will not lose any more. After folding, you are out of the game until
the next game round.

Check/Call
You can stay in the game by checking or calling. If no bet has been
made before you, you can check without placing any money in the pot.
If a bet has been made, you can call by placing the same amount in
the pot.

Bet/Raise/Re-raise
If you think you hand is good enough, you can make a bet. If another
player has already made a bet, you can raise it.amounts are fixed by
the table stakes. For example, in a $5/$10 table, bets are $5 in the
first two rounds and $10 in the last two. There can be one bet and
three raises in each round (bet, raise, re-raise, re-raise). After
three raises the betting round is capped and the next card is dealt
(or, if it is the final betting round, the best hand is determined).


All-in
When a player runs out of chips during the course of a hand, he/she
does not have to fold. Instead the player can choose to be All-in.
When you are all-in, you call all your chips and the pot is divided
into the main pot and side pot. All subsequent chips are hereafter
added to the side pot. At the showdown if the "All-in" player does
not have a winning hand, both the side pot and the main pot go to the
winning hand, as usual. At the showdown if the "All-in" player has a
winning hand, the main pot goes to the "All-in" player, and the side
pot goes to the next best hand. When several players go All-in,
multiple side pots are created. The pots are divided according to
hand and order in which the players went All-in. If a player not all
in at the showdown has the winning hand he wins all side pots and the
main pot. If an all in player has the strongest hand he/she wins the
pot or pots that were collected until he/she went All-in. Any all in
player with a winning hand can only win the pot or pots they are
involved in.

A Betting round continues until all players have folded or called the
third raise, or until a bet has been called by all players (except
the one who placed the bet) with no raise taking place.

Thanks to: http://noblepoker.com.bonus-code.info/